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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.